Banca di Roma, Glasgow, restaurant review: ‘Lunch for two for £81? Next time I’m off to Sugo’

All great cities have those iconic squares and boulevards, riverbanks and thoroughfares where the city’s sense of itself is at its most concentrated. The eateries that come and go in such places — and come and go they do a lot — tend to be a homogenised mix of chains, overpriced cafés and flashy restaurants briefly housed in vast historic buildings. Rents are extortionately high in such settings, and with high rents come high stakes.

And so to Royal Exchange Square, which many would say is Glasgow at its Glasgow-est. There’s the Duke of Wellington atop his bronze steed with his trusty traffic cone atop his head. There’s the Gallery of Modern Art, housed in a mansion constructed for the tobacco and sugar merchant William